Cape Cod Tides

The boats had not yet arrived on this early spring day at Rock Harbor in Orleans.

 The docks were laid, but the moorings stood empty.

 There were three working vessels tied up, waiting for the right time to sail. The remnants of shucked clams and scallops were piled on top of each other close to the water's edge.

Cap't Cass's Clam Shack showed some life inside but it wasn't ready yet. The tide was out, teasing the passer by with the possibility of finding treasures on the ocean floor.

We walked west of the jetty to get a closer view of the oyster traps. We passed a few dog prints on our way. The wrack line of sea grasses crunched under our hiking boots.

We drove further west to see more of the bay. At Linnell Landing in Brewster, the tide ebbed and flowed carving rivulets into the wet sand; abstract and delicate images from Mother Nature.

 I went closer to the water to explore more.

...and I found something.

A small but beautiful pottery chard with a painted scallop pattern on its edges. Its age could be dated to the 1850s.

I walked over to the rocks. It's the best place to find treasures because they get stuck in between the cobbles and stones.

I know most beach-goers would prefer a smooth sandy beach but for beachcombers this view is just right.

The tide began to close in around us and we knew it was time to leave... for now.

In my first historical novel, The Old Cape House, Maria Hallet speaks about her life to a dear friend. It resonates with my post of today.
 
“I cannot remember a time when I was not watching or waiting for someone or something. My life has been like the tides, ever washing away parts of my life and at the same time cleansing it for something new.”

Searching for Spring on Cape Cod - Part I

One recent Monday the sky was blue and the sun warmed our backs as we walked a Brewster beach. In a spur of the moment, Tim and I decided to go and explore in search of any evidence of the coming Spring. We stopped home to pick up our cameras and a picnic lunch, then headed east to the end of North America.
Our first stop was at Nauset Beach in Orleans.

Surprise! The bandstand sported a 10 foot drift of sand across its front.

A far cry from summer during one of the many summertime concerts.

Liam's clam shack at Nauset Beach won't be open for a while...too much sand.
 

Nauset Light beach was next in Eastham. We wanted to get down to the beach to see the cliff erosion but discovered that the stairs down to the sand were gone and the viewing platform hung over the edge of the bluff into thin air. We've certainly had some hardy storms on the Cape wreaking havoc with our coastline.

We watched the waves crash onto the beach with a stormy fury for a few minutes.

We then drove a short distance to Coast Guard Beach and found the same scenario. We didn't get very far, the walkway and stairs were also gone by the station house.

 What we did discover, over to our left, were the remnants of an ancient swamp and a way to get down to the beach.

Huge sections of peat were exposed that had previously been covered over with a sand dune.

 The hearty inhabitants of old Cape Cod used this decayed, hard mass of vegetation to burn and heat their homes. They also sold it in sectional squares or rectangles to the citizens of Boston for the same use.

Pictured here is a cedar tree stump sticking out of the side of a dune.

 We drove further out to Truro and a took a walk up Bearberry Hill overlooking a break in the dune from the last several storms.  This barrier dune had once protected the freshwater of Pamet River from the salty Ballston Beach.

This wooden sign at the top of the hill shows the break in 1991.

Here's a video link of the tremendous force of the ocean against our coastline.  It was taken by Eric Williams of the Cape Cod Times.
 ballston beach - capecodonline



I managed to walk across the beach in the middle of the break and stand in awe of the forces of nature.

 

Water and mud covered the parking lot.



If you face the ocean and then turn right on this beach, you'll find a house that hopefully will survive. The owners have made desperate attempts to secure it from falling over.

 Next to this house was the original entrance to Balston Beach. Now it's mostly gone and only remnants of peat are left along with the posts of a fence.

We enjoyed the sun on our adventure and appreciated the changes in the coastline but didn't find many signs of spring until we pulled into our driveway. We spotted the beautiful aconite and snowdrop flowers peeking their delicate faces up and out of the winter browns.

Changes on Cape Cod

We can't escape change. Nature changes our surroundings by the second, it's always moving, growing, and dying...giving way to rebirth.

Nauset Beach in Orleans has been transformed this winter by the forces of nature. The boardwalk that takes you to the beach has been filled in with sand.

Now the top of the fence posts are all that's exposed as you walk the boardwalk.

 Here's the little bench that offered a restful view of the Atlantic Ocean. The top rail and its plaque can only be seen.

To the side of the boardwalk is a ramp for easy access to the beach. Currently this is what it looks like...not so easy.

This picture was taken of the same ramp in the summer.



More changes...
           
                                                                           MAC

Last week we took our first walk without our beagle Mac. Sadly we lost him to old age and a weak heart. We will miss our faithful companion. But we continue to walk and explore in his memory and for our good health.

No matter what changes come into your life, I know that a walk along the beach is always restorative and soothing.

Winter on Cape Cod

Winter has settled upon sleepy Cape Cod. Temperatures are hovering below freezing and the wind makes everything colder.

The beaches still beckon us to visit. Tim and I, plus our beagle Mac, try to listen to the call of the mighty ocean and explore its dunes and shoreline.

Linnell Landing in Brewster is usually the easiest access for us to see the tumultuous water-waves and whitecaps when the wind is really blowing. 
The day we took these pictures the temperature was 9 degrees with a wind chill making the air a frigid 0 degrees and below. We didn't stay long... just long enough to feel the power of nature.

My blog has been quiet since the end of August because I received a new hip in September 2012. Recovering kept me occupied. At first I was disappointed with myself when I discovered that my hip needed to be replaced, after all, I ate right and exercised all the time. But when I was told that it was a form of a birth defect, my bone was too big for my hip socket and it literally wore out, I felt better. It wasn't all my fault.
The good news is that because I was so active before the surgery, I rode my bike the day before my hip was replaced, I healed quicker.
So now I'm back to my usual wanderings across this beautiful peninsula and discovering interesting facts and places.

I'm also thrilled to start off 2013 with the news that Booktrope Publishing of Seattle has offered me a contract to publish my first novel, The Old Cape House: A Mooncussers Tale.
We are in the editing process right now and hope to have a completion date soon. I will keep you posted.

Cape Cod Creatures of the Sea

Cape Codders have always had a close connection to the sea. Whether you fish, sail, paddle or walk the coast of this precious peninsula, all of us feel the need to protect it and hold onto its beauty.

 For centuries past and up to modern times, the Cape's coastline has provided a livelihood for its inhabitants, whether its through fresh seafood, gorgeous vistas, sandy beaches or scenic trails.  The fisherman, artist, musician, retailer, retiree and tourist all benefit from its gifts.

Sometimes, it yields strange happenings. Centuries ago, along the bay, you could see the spouts of humpback whales exploding into the air across the horizon. There's also documentation of waves of blackfish that beached themselves at low tide, for reasons unknown to man. Wellfleet had more than their share over the years. Even today, dolphins follow this odd behavior of stranding along the coast and scientists still scratch their heads as to why they do it. Thankfully, with the help of many local volunteers, most are saved and guided back to the sea.
 

                               Blackfish Stranding at Blackfish Creek in Wellfleet circa 1930
                                                        
                                                          Photo courtesy of CapeCodHistory.us  (Wellfeet page)

In March of 2011, several employees of the Ocean Edge Resort in Brewster were clearing the beach and came across a stone buried in the sand. They began to dig it out and realized that it was much larger than they thought and that it might be part of a skeleton from a whale or some other sea creature. The IFAW (International Fund for Animal Welfare) was called in. They immediately agreed and wanted to have it carbon dated.

Check out this great interview by Eric Williams of Cape Cod Times about the discovery.
Ancient whale skull found

One year later in July 2012, the results of testing on the discovery by the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute were made public. They said it was a skull from a North Atlantic right whale. The bone measured 6 feet long and weighed 400-500 lbs. The whale lived between 1500 and 1650. If you remember your history, the Pilgrims landed here in 1620. It was transported to the Smithsonian in D.C for further analysis. Now that was exciting!

Sometime in early spring of the late 90s, along the coast of Brewster, we heard there was a whale on the beach. My son Scott, husband Tim and I drove over to see the majestic beast that had met its demise in our little town.
 

It was a 43 foot finback whale; so big and yet so sad to see.  But it's a tale that doesn't end in Brewster. The town fathers wondered what to do with it. It was too costly to bury or haul it away.  Since the weather was cold, which kept the smell at a minimum, a decision was made to leave it alone. Within a week it drifted to another bay side beach in a neighboring town. They were of the same mind and let it lie. More days past and the tide took it to a new coastal beach. Eventually after several weeks of Mother Nature passing the poor whale's carcass back and forth, and no one wanting to spend any money on its removal, it disappeared into the ocean. Yankee thrift at its best!

Last week we celebrated Shark Week. Strange but true, sightings of sharks have been popping up all over the news recently on the Cape...and here's why.

                                                                         Photo courtesy of Luke Simpson

 We've had such a preponderance of seals on the sand bars, like the picture above from Chatham. I believe the word has spread over the last few years among the sharks that there's a free lunch on beautiful Cape Cod.

                                                                             Photo courtesy of Gothamist

This rare sighting occurred off Nauset Beach. The kayaker won but officials closed the beach.

 The logic is that when someone swims or paddles on the surface, their kicking legs or paddling mimic a seal... soooooo, can you blame the sharks?

On July 31 2012, off Ballston Beach in Truro someone did get bit by a great white shark. He survived but it was a harrowing experience for Chris Myers of Denver.

                                                            Photo courtesy of abc news

 Bottom line...if you go into the ocean, be aware of what's going on around you and under you plus don't ever think it can't happen to you. Officials caution but add "... don't worry, there hasn't been a fatality from a shark bite on Cape Cod since 1936."

                  
                                                 See you ON the beach, not in the water.

Bandstands and Music - Cape Cod

One thing that Cape Cod is plentiful in... is music. Almost all of the 15 towns on the Cape have bandstands that offer wonderful settings to hear the melodies, marches, riffs and beats of so many different musical groups. Several of the bandstands emerged in the early thirties, while many of the town bands had already been formed before the turn of the century.  These early bands entertained inside halls, public gathering places, parades and of course, greeting someone important at train depots. Economic reasons may have been why only a few towns had bandstands.

                                                        Photo by Lenny at Affordable Cape Cod Vacations

Summertime in Chatham is the place to be for a traditional band concert on Friday evenings. The night is filled with people, children singing, colorful balloons and the melodious sounds of the town band. Chatham's first bandstand stood on what is now the municipal parking lot next to Chatham Town Hall in the 1920s. After WWII, it was moved to Kate Gould Park. Around 1950, money was raised for a new one. The old gazebo was moved once again to Chatham Veteran's Field, where it was enclosed and still serves as an equipment storage shed for the Chatham A's baseball team.
Concerts begin at 8 P.M.

                                                            Photo courtesy of Cape Cod Travel

 Harwich's bandstand was built by the Kiwanis in 1935 and rests near the center of town in Brooks Park. Concerts begin at 6 P.M. on Mondays.

The town of Brewster built a bandstand in 1994 with funds and volunteer help from the Brewster Board of Trade, now the Brewster Chamber of Commerce. It sits nestled on a lovely patch of grass in Drummer Boy Park with a view of the sea. Tim and our second oldest son fondly remember helping a work crew one Saturday morning when construction was almost completed, and along with others, signed their names and date hidden up in the rafters for posterity.

 Nauset Beach in Orleans is the center for outdoor music every Monday and Thursday. Come early for dinner at Liam's Clam shack or bring your own. Make sure you take a walk down to the beach to see the crashing waves and surfers. Little ones run and dance around the bandstand while kites and seagulls soar across the blue horizon. One evening I counted 12 kites!

Along with town bands offering concerts, Citizens Bank of Cape Cod in partnership with Cape Cod Arts Foundation offer a series of FREE concerts across the Cape. Here is a link to their schedule:
Citizens Bank Concert Series

You can attend a concert every weekday across the Cape and all for FREE! Bring a picnic basket and your beach chairs or just stretch out on a blanket for a relaxing summer evening on old Cape Cod.